Breakfast curry and coffee, and we catch the train with the group into Old Town. The train is very crowded (though not quite London crowded) but it is modern, clean and air conditioned. We walk through the streets, try a street samosa and visit Jama Masjid, the biggest mosque in India with capacity of 25,000 and built it the 15th century. I even spotted a couple of eagles perched in a tree by the southern gate.

Then on to the Sikh temple, Sis Ganj. We take our shoes off, cover our heads with bandanas (I can’t resist a bit of a snake dance) and wander into the prayer room via a foot bath. Inside the richly but garish temple is a golden shrine, rich red carpets and lots of sikhs in turbans, praying and donating money to the tune of a tabla and two harmonium players. People also volunteer to help prepare meals at the temple kitchen next door, which offer free food to anyone all day.

We catch rickshaws to Asia’s largest spice market, Khari Baoli, and buy some spice pouches.

Lunch is a Thali at a local place, where they only accept local credit cards, and not foreigners, which leaves me embarrassingly asking for donations from the tour group.

Metro home, then a car trip with some of the group to the site of Gandhi’s assassination,  Humayun’s Tomb, nearby Isa Khan Niazi’s Tomb and India Gate.

Mixed grill, beer and bed.

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